Sonotubes for my solar array ... (2024)

Kidvic said:

First attempt at solar. Here is a few pics of my EG4 Solar BrightMount ground mount work. Trench, anchored sonotubes, 2 cubic yards of 5k psi concrete, epoxy the bolts and mount the frames. Will square them up, run my 6 awg grounding hardware and drive the grounding rods into the ground. Suggestions welcome.

Click to expand...

How far from your array to your existing building ground? The ground rods might not be needed for your situation.

cs1234 said:

How far from your array to your existing building ground? The ground rods might not be needed for your situation.

Click to expand...

I actually don't know the answer SW. I'm erring on the side of caution. Pulled the rods for an old electric fence so I thought I'd use them. The distance from the grounding rods to my solar room is about 70 feet. I plan on driving an extra one just outside the room. Your thoughts are appreciated though ... thx

Kidvic said:

I actually don't know the answer SW. I'm erring on the side of caution. Pulled the rods for an old electric fence so I thought I'd use them. The distance from the grounding rods to my solar room is about 70 feet. I plan on driving an extra one just outside the room. Your thoughts are appreciated though ... thx

Click to expand...

See Also

RECESSED RETROFIT DOWNLIGHT LUMINAIRE DE …pdf.lowes.com/useandcareguides/840623110027_use.pdfTiempo estimado de ensamblaje: 1 minuto. No se necesitan herramientas para el ensamblaje. - [PDF Document]

It's generally recommended to not have any auxiliary ground rods on your system. You just need to make sure your panels/racking equipment/enclosures and such are all grounded back to the main building ground.. assuming that the solar system will be connected into that same buildings system. You just run that ground cable along with your PV + and PV - wires.

Kidvic said:

First attempt at solar. Here is a few pics of my EG4 Solar BrightMount ground mount work. Trench, anchored sonotubes, 2 cubic yards of 5k psi concrete, epoxy the bolts and mount the frames. Will square them up, run my 6 awg grounding hardware and drive the grounding rods into the ground. Suggestions welcome.

Click to expand...

Looks great! First attempt looks like a pro

cs1234 said:

How far from your array to your existing building ground? The ground rods might not be needed for your situation.

Click to expand...

Loadtoad said:

Why have all that disturbed soil from the trench all around the sontubes? Why not just use an attachment that digs the round holes the size of the tubes? It's definitely not going anywhere, but?

Click to expand...

I thought the same. I bought an 18" auger for my tractor. The hole needed to be a little less than 4' deep. After 2 broken shear pins and a hole that slanted about 15 degrees I realized this wasn't going to work out as planned. I'm to old to be using post hole diggers for very long. Good question though ...

I am guessing all of those tubes bottom terminate into a full length concrete beam.

Great job!

seneysolar said:

Looks great! First attempt looks like a pro

Click to expand...

Thanks bro ... need all the encouragement I can get : )

Philip53 said:

I am guessing all of those tubes bottom terminate into a full length concrete beam.

Great job!

Click to expand...

I did have a little concrete left over so I just buttered the bottom with the remaining mix. Stabilized them somewhat...

cs1234 said:

It's generally recommended to not have any auxiliary ground rods on your system. You just need to make sure your panels/racking equipment/enclosures and such are all grounded back to the main building ground.. assuming that the solar system will be connected into that same buildings system. You just run that ground cable along with your PV + and PV - wires.

Click to expand...

Understood. Thx. Can I use solid 6 awg along with the PV wiring or should I do something like 6 awg THHN stranded wire? Your comments are appreciated. All new endeavor for me : ) An after thought .... would it be ok to use solid copper for ganging the panels together and use stranded AWG from the combiner box to the solar charge controller?

Bluedog225 said:

I’d be tempted to join those rails together to get a few more panels.

Click to expand...

I have mixed thoughts on that. Being a newbie I don't know the answer. It almost seems like it would be easier to adjust the panels and frame if they were smaller. If they were all connected I'd have to have a half a dozen helpers to change the angle of all of them put together. I may not be seeing the entire picture though ... appreciate your input. Thx

Kidvic said:

I have mixed thoughts on that. Being a newbie I don't know the answer. It almost seems like it would be easier to adjust the panels and frame if they were smaller. If they were all connected I'd have to have a half a dozen helpers to change the angle of all of them put together. I may not be seeing the entire picture though ... appreciate your input. Thx

Click to expand...

True that. I didn’t notice they were adjustable.

Subdood said:

Look good. What kind and how many panels will you be installing on the mount? Did you hand mix the concrete or did you have it brought in? I mixed about 20 50lb bags of Quikrete for 10 holes for my install.

Click to expand...

I opted for the REC Solar REC420AA-PURE-R Alpha Series 420 watt panels. A Norwegian company that had good reviews. I bought a few bags of concrete from Lowes but after calculating the amount of mix I'd need I changed my mind. Too old : ) Having the concrete delivered wasn't that much more expensive than buying individual bags and mixing it myself. I had them mix it thin with chips which will make it tight and strong. I wound up using 2 cubic yards for the (12) 12" x 4' sonotubes. Having done it once I feel more confident doing it again if I chose to expand my array. My biggest mistake was allowing a rain storm to fill my trench with about 8" of water. Had to hand bail with a bucket. ugh

Bluedog225 said:

Looks great.

Click to expand...

Thanks ... a lot of work but a lot of fun.

Bluedog225 said:

I was told recently by one of our resident experts that stranded insulated was his preference for grounding conductor.

Click to expand...

Yes ... I kind of figured that would be the answer. Always the more expen$ive option : ) Thx